Azienda Agricola Durin, Ortovero, Liguria

Antonio Basso (nicknamed “Durin”) and his wife Laura cultivate by hand what by Ligurian standards is a Texas sized ranch: almost 25 acres of steeply terraced vineyards planted to Vermentino, Pigato, Rossese, Ormeasco, Alicante, Sangiovese and Garnaccia. Many of the vines are truly ancient and the yields are very low while the flavors are rich and succulent, all in keeping with Antonio’s goal of making wines with a bit more substance than the typical Ligurian bottlings. It’s working:

Durin Riviera Ligure di Ponente Vermentino 2005, Liguria $25.99

The classic wine for the fresh seafood specialties of the Ligurian Riviera, Vermentino from this zona right on the French border brings all the aromas and flavors of the place with it: herbs, flowers and wild fennel on the nose, white fruits and a zingy, briny smack of the sea on the palate. There is a reason that Frito Misto (shrimp, squid, octopus, fish and vegetables lightly fried in a sort of Tempura Italiana) is nearly a religious sacrament in these parts. Take a bottle to Frito Misto at 6th and Colorado right here in Santa Monica and see for yourself...

Durin Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato 2005, Liguria $25.99

The secret love of the vintners of Liguria, Pigato is exotically scented with notes of acacia flowers, caraway and poppy seed on the nose, white peaches, almonds, citrus zest and more on the palate, all laced firmly into a delicately minerally substrate. Sushi! Sushi!! SUSHI!!!