A Survey of Soave
Many people have the wrong idea about Soave, one of the highest quality white wine zonas in Italy, due to exposure to the dreaded E-Bolla. Yes, a lot of insipid industrial swill is made from grapes grown on inferior flatland vineyards there (where a lot of Trebbiano is intermixed with the much more noble Garganega variety to bump up the yields per hectare), BUT a large proportion of the very best Italian whites are hand made by small vignerons using much better fruit harvested from the hillside plots. And, like Gavi or Verdicchio, the best Soave can develop with age into something truly enchanting. From light and fresh to rich and textured, there’s something for everyone:
Botter Soave 2011, Veneto
This wine has almost NO color but brings a satisfying mouthfeel with lots of lush fruit and a food friendly dry finish to the table.
I Campi Soave Classico Campo Vulcano 2011, Veneto
Garganega + small amounts of old vine Trebbiano, all from very low yielding 35 year old vines growing in volcanic soil at quite high altitude for the zona which have a very large swing between day and nighttime temperatures, a key factor in producing complex wines. Harvested with both more sugar and more acidity than most grapes in the zona, this wine is aged on the lees for extra richness and has a pronounced minerally scent on the nose. VERY limited.